How Did Women’s Fashion Change In The 1920s

The 1920s was a pivotal decade for women’s fashion in the United States and Europe. As women gained more independence and moved into previously male-dominated arenas like the workplace, their clothing changed to reflect their new social status. Gone were the restrictive corsets and modest ankle-length dresses of the past, replaced by loose silhouettes, shorter hemlines, and bold new styles that allowed women to move more freely and showcase their individuality.

The Rise of the Flapper

The archetypal image of 1920s women’s fashion is that of the flapper. Flappers were fashionable young women who embraced new fashions like short skirts, bobbed hairstyles, makeup, and a more androgynous look. The flapper style represented women breaking away from past gender roles and restrictions. Key aspects included:

• Shorter skirts rising as high as the knee
• Loose-fitting dresses without constricting waists or corsets
• Straight, curveless silhouettes
• Bobbed or cropped hairstyles
• Makeup including smoky eyes and bright red lips
• Beaded evening gowns
• Feathers and fringe used lavishly for decoration
• High heels
• Long strings of pearls

The flapper look was shocking at first but soon gained widespread popularity among fashionable young women. It reflected their desire for comfortable clothing that allowed them to take part in active pursuits like dancing, rather than just demurely sitting and looking pretty.

Coco Chanel’s Influence

No overview of 1920s women’s fashion is complete without mentioning Coco Chanel. The visionary French designer pioneered new styles for the modern, progressive woman. She completely eschewed corsets and unnecessary decoration, preferring clean lines, simple tailoring, and practical fabrics like jersey knit. Some of Chanel’s most iconic contributions included:

• The Chanel suit – a collarless cardigan jacket with braided trim paired with an elegant skirt
• Costume jewelry like large faux-pearl necklaces
• Little black dresses perfect for day-to-night wear
• Straight, hip-length skirts
• Cardigan sweaters and elegant blouses
• Tweed jackets and coats
• Two-tone slingback shoes
• Quilted handbags with chain straps

Chanel’s styles gave women a versatile, modern wardrobe that transitioned seamlessly from day to evening. Her focus on real women’s needs and desire for freedom of movement made her a revolutionary designer who still influences fashion today.

The Bias Cut and Art Deco Style

While loose, straight cuts were popular in the daytime, evening wear took on a sleeker silhouette influenced by Art Deco style. Madeleine Vionnet pioneered the bias cut, which involved cutting fabric diagonally to accentuate the female form. This allowed dresses to elegantly drape and cling to the body. Features included:

• Clingy, body-skimming gowns
• Draped cowl necks and asymmetrical hems
• Intricate beading and embroidery
• Sleek satin, silk, and velvet fabrics
• Art Deco geometric patterns
• Long sashes and trains

The bias cut gave women an alluring silhouette while still allowing ease of movement for dancing. Paired with stylish new short bobs and dramatic makeup, bias cut gowns helped women put their best face forward.

Sportswear and Practical Fashion

As women engaged in more physical activities in the ’20s, fashion adapted to meet their needs. Designers created versatile sportswear that could be worn for everything from playing tennis to going to the beach. These comfortable, practical outfits reflected women’s changing lifestyles. Elements included:

• Sleeveless tops
• Pleated skirts with hemlines above the knee
• Sweaters and cardigans
• Wide-legged pants and knickers
• Leather jackets
• Scarves
• Cloche hats

By wearing sportswear, women could ride bikes, play sports, drive cars, and generally be as active as they pleased while still looking fashionable. Coco Chanel’s designs in particular merged elegance with functionality in the sports arena.

The Growing Influence of Hollywood

As cinema grew in popularity, Hollywood starlets became trendsetters celebrated for their glamorous style. Stars like Louise Brooks, Clara Bow, and Greta Garbo inspired women to emulate their on-screen looks. Trends from the silver screen included:

• Platinum blond bobbed hairstyles
• Thin, pencil-line eyebrows
• Heavy black eyeliner
• Red or carmine-colored lipstick
• Slinky bias cut gowns
• Long strings of pearls
• T-strap shoes
• Extravagant hair accessories like feathered headbands

Hollywood also popularized pants for women. Stars like Katharine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich wore trousers on and off screen, helping break down gender barriers. The advent of movie fashion helped spread trends rapidly around the world.

Accessories and Beauty Trends

Accessories saw dramatic changes in the 1920s as short hairstyles necessitated new hair embellishments. Cloche hats, feathered headbands, turbans, and decorative combs adorned short bobs. Long single-strand pearl necklaces, multiple bracelets, and costume jewelry in bright colors and geometric patterns also grew popular.

Makeup took on a whole new importance thanks to influential figures like dancer Josephine Baker. Baker used makeup to transform gender and racial norms through exaggerated lips, eyes, and brows. Other key makeup trends included:

• Dark eyes with heavy kohl liner and mascara
• Defined, thin eyebrows
• Bright red or carmine lipstick
• Pale skin (a tan was associated with lower class field work)
• Fingernails painted red or pink

These beauty trends allowed women to highlight facial features and convey a glance of rebellion, glamour, and mystery.

Undergarments and Lingerie

While restrictive corsets disappeared, lingerie saw rapid changes to accommodate new fashions. Shorter hemlines necessitated longer stockings held up by decorative garters. Lacy bras allowed sheer fabrics to be worn without revealing too much. Colorful camiknickers and tap pants provided coverage under loose dresses. Chemises and slips gave shape to boyish flapper silhouettes. New transparent and flesh-toned fabrics provided coverage without bulk. The modern lingerie industry sprang from these undergarment advancements.

Key Factors in Changing Fashion

Several cultural shifts came together to drive dramatic changes in 1920s women’s fashion, including:

• Women entering the workforce – As more women took office and factory jobs previously reserved for men, they required practical clothing suited for work rather than just domestic duties.
• Female empowerment – Winning the right to vote and taking control over their education, jobs, sexuality, and more, women used fashion to celebrate their newfound liberation.
• Youth culture – Young people drove many trends as old social codes broke down after the horror of WWI. Youth wanted fashion that was comfortable, allowed freedom of movement, and shook up the old order.
• Art and design innovations – Bold Art Deco motifs, Cubist inspiration, exotic motifs from Tutankhamun’s tomb – these influenced colorful prints, geometric cuts, lavish embroidery, and more.
• The growing mass media – Movies, magazines, advertising allowed trends to spread widely. Working women had more money to spend on clothes and wanted to emulate the latest styles.

These cultural undercurrents made the 1920s a turning point for women’s fashion. The decade’s styles embodied female emancipation and a new modern age.