The 1920s was a pivotal decade for women’s fashion in the United States and Europe. As women gained more independence and moved into previously male-dominated arenas like the workplace, their clothing changed to reflect their new social status. Gone were restrictive corsets and modest ankle-length skirts, replaced by loose silhouettes, shorter hemlines, and bold new styles that shocked older generations.
The Influence of World War I
World War I had a profound impact on women’s fashion in the 1920s. With so many young men fighting overseas, women took over traditionally male jobs and kept industries like manufacturing going. They wore practical work clothes instead of dresses while doing factory jobs or driving trucks and buses.
When the war ended in 1918, these independent, empowered women were unwilling to return to restrictive fashions like corsets and floor-length skirts. Designers responded by creating looser, shorter, and more casual clothing that reflected women’s new roles. These comfortable styles also enabled an active, fast-paced lifestyle that became popular during the prosperous Roaring Twenties.
The Rise of the Flapper
No image represents the fashion of the 1920s better than that of the flapper. These fun-loving, independent young women wore short skirts, loose dresses, and vibrant makeup that broke with older ideals of how women should dress and behave. Flappers cut their hair into short bobs and wore loose shifts that fell to just below the knee, allowing them to dance freely to jazz music in nightclubs.
This rejection of corsets and modest clothing was a declaration of female empowerment. As flappers pursued education, careers, birth control access, and the right to vote, their clothing reflected their determination to make their own choices instead of submitting to societal expectations.
Iconic Flapper Fashion
- Loose drop-waist dresses with straight lines to conceal curves
- Mary Jane heels or T-strap shoes
- Long strands of beads
- Short bobbed hairstyles
- Cloche hats
- Sheer stockings
- Kohl-rimmed eyes and bright red lips
The Little Black Dress
Coco Chanel unveiled her iconic little black dress in 1926. Made from versatile black crepe de chine, this slim, ankle-length sheath dress with long sleeves was both elegant and comfortable. It marked a revolutionary shift towards simplicity in women’s clothing.
The little black dress quickly caught on with progressive young women who appreciated its refined silhouette that flattered the female form without restrictive corsets. It remains a wardrobe staple today, adapted to every fashion era while retaining its original sophistication.
Masculine Details Become Feminine
Androgynous looks also came into vogue during the 1920s. Women adopted menswear-inspired pieces like oxford shoes, wool trousers, button-down shirts, ties, suspenders, waistcoats, and wide-shouldered suit jackets.
Many fashion historians see this as another manifestation of female empowerment. As women entered political life and professional careers, they incorporated masculine details from business and academic dress into their wardrobes. This allowed women to appear competent and authoritative in their new public roles.
Popular Menswear-Inspired Garments for Women
- Oxford shoes
- Trousers
- Suspenders
- Waistcoats
- Soft collared shirts
- Bowler hats
- Monocles
The Bias Cut
Madeleine Vionnet revolutionized dressmaking in the 1920s by cutting fabric on the bias or diagonally across the weave. This created elegant gowns that draped softly over the body in sensual lines. Her technique enabled dresses to cling to curves without constricting corsets and hang gracefully down the body.
The bias cut was perfect for showcasing the slim, straight figures that were popular in the 1920s. It enabled active movement and enhanced the female form in a subtle yet alluring way. Vionnet’s innovative approach defined modern elegance and sensuality in clothing.
Art Deco Influences
The sleek, geometric lines of Art Deco architecture and design also impacted women’s fashion in the 1920s. Hemlines became straighter, dresses more streamlined. Decorative embellishments mimicked the angular patterns and sharp edges seen in Art Deco motifs.
This machine-age aesthetic complemented the rapid pace of modern urban society. Like flappers dancing frenetically to jazz music, Art Deco fashion celebrated the styles of industry, skyscrapers, and mechanization that defined the 1920s.
Characteristics of Art Deco Fashion
- Straight, tubular dresses without curves
- Geometric patterned fabrics
- Chevrons, zigzags, and bold graphic prints
- Long strands of rectangular beads
- Diamond and triangle shapes
- Enamel jewelry with black and white
The Changing Silhouette
The most dramatic change in 1920s women’s fashion was the shrinking silhouette. Out went the exaggerated S-bend corseted figures of the early 20th century, replaced by straight, slim, almost boyish bodies. This tubular shape was enhanced by binding the breasts flat or wearing a bra that flattened and de-emphasized the bust.
Fashion also began to differentiate between daywear and eveningwear. Loose short dresses were worn for outdoor activities during the day. In the evening, hemlines dropped and necklines became more dramatic with backless designs.
This differentiation reflected the increasingly busy lives women led. The loose silhouettes enabled physical activity while the elegant evening gowns gave women an opportunity to showcase glamour.
Shocking the Older Generations
The fashions of independent-minded youth culture certainly shocked older generations in the 1920s. Many saw flappers as reckless rebels flouting social norms. Headlines warned that women’s clothing was becoming too masculine as girls cut their hair short and wore trousers.
But these styles were simply expressions of seismic cultural shifts. Traditional gender roles blurred as women earned advanced degrees, obtained more jobs, and won the right to vote. Clothing trends followed these social changes. And despite some lingering prejudice, by the end of the decade the iconic looks we now associate with the 1920s were widely accepted across society.
